Joey Shamah, co-founder of e.l.f. Cosmetics, describes the retail hesitation around carrying extreme value cosmetics.
Insight
Basic cosmetics manufacturing costs 35 cents across the industry, says Shamah
“Well, that's what it, is what I'm trying to say. That's what it costs. Like, that's how much it costs everybody. Now, yes, you can put active ingredients, and yes, this was 25 years ago, and yes, there are more expensive componentry and finishes and all that, …”
Assertion Not checkable as stated
Failed premium drugstore lines from Revlon and L'Oreal enabled e.l.f.'s retail expansion
“Revlon launched a brand called Vital Radiance. Now you probably don't remember, ever heard of it. And L'Oreal launched a brand called Hip to compete with Mac. And the major premise of both those brands was we are going to sell more expensive cosmetics in the d…”
Insight
Cosmetic formulations are cheap; packaging determines $1 makeup viability, says Shamah
“Basically what we learned really early on is when you break down the cosmetics to formulations and componentry, formulations, yes, you can hit that price point. The real artistry, if you may, is in the componentry, where we couldn't afford metal, we had to go …”
Disclosure
Shamah: e.l.f. Cosmetics targeted 35-cent COGS and 59-cent wholesale price
“So it's about, it was about half of that, because our target goods cost was about 35 cents. I think back to the simplicity angle, everything we sold it for 59 cents, so they could retail it for a dollar.”
Disclosure
e.l.f. co-founder Scott Borba developed products while employed by competitors
“Scott was, in, in full disclosure, still working for other cosmetic companies, but working for us on the nights and weekends. He was doing the product development. So, yes, we did use my father's apparel office.”
Assertion Supported
Retail makeup shelf space was locked up by five conglomerates, says Shamah
“That was the problem in the early days, that you had a few incumbents that owned a bunch of brands and controlled all the space at retail. So you had L'Oreal, which was L'Oreal and Maybelline. You had P and G, which owned cover girl at the time. So there was n…”