Joey Shamah, co-founder of e.l.f. Cosmetics, describes the manufacturing economics behind producing ultra-low-cost makeup in the early 2000s.
Insight
Basic cosmetics manufacturing costs 35 cents across the industry, says Shamah
“Well, that's what it, is what I'm trying to say. That's what it costs. Like, that's how much it costs everybody. Now, yes, you can put active ingredients, and yes, this was 25 years ago, and yes, there are more expensive componentry and finishes and all that, …”
Insight
Retailers resisted $1 e.l.f. makeup fearing customers would trade down, says Shamah
“One of our biggest obstacles in the early years was retailers afraid to put our product on shelves. Cause they didn't want to trade the customer down. If they're selling a six dollar lip gloss and I'm selling a dollar lip gloss and they customer buys mine over…”
Assertion Not checkable as stated
Failed premium drugstore lines from Revlon and L'Oreal enabled e.l.f.'s retail expansion
“Revlon launched a brand called Vital Radiance. Now you probably don't remember, ever heard of it. And L'Oreal launched a brand called Hip to compete with Mac. And the major premise of both those brands was we are going to sell more expensive cosmetics in the d…”
Disclosure
Shamah: e.l.f. Cosmetics targeted 35-cent COGS and 59-cent wholesale price
“So it's about, it was about half of that, because our target goods cost was about 35 cents. I think back to the simplicity angle, everything we sold it for 59 cents, so they could retail it for a dollar.”
Disclosure
e.l.f. co-founder Scott Borba developed products while employed by competitors
“Scott was, in, in full disclosure, still working for other cosmetic companies, but working for us on the nights and weekends. He was doing the product development. So, yes, we did use my father's apparel office.”
Assertion Supported
Retail makeup shelf space was locked up by five conglomerates, says Shamah
“That was the problem in the early days, that you had a few incumbents that owned a bunch of brands and controlled all the space at retail. So you had L'Oreal, which was L'Oreal and Maybelline. You had P and G, which owned cover girl at the time. So there was n…”