Joey Shamah, co-founder of e.l.f. Cosmetics, explains the cost structure of the cosmetics industry and why standard products cost very little to manufacture.
0:00 / 0:28exact quote · 28.7s
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“Well, that's what it, is what I'm trying to say. That's what it costs. Like, that's how much it costs everybody. Now, yes, you can put active ingredients, and yes, this was 25 years ago, and yes, there are more expensive componentry and finishes and all that, but you're also paying for the corporate overhead. You're paying for the infrastructure. You're paying for the spokespeople. You're paying for the marketing campaigns. You're paying for the shelf space. You're paying for the returns. You're paying for the warehousing.”
quote is from the automated transcript, cleaned for reading:
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“One of our biggest obstacles in the early years was retailers afraid to put our product on shelves. Cause they didn't want to trade the customer down. If they're selling a six dollar lip gloss and I'm selling a dollar lip gloss and they customer buys mine over…”
Joey ShamahJun 29, 2026▶ 16:08e.l.f. Cosmetics: Joey Shamah. The Dollar Store Formula That Built a Cosmetics Giant
AssertionNot checkable as stated
Failed premium drugstore lines from Revlon and L'Oreal enabled e.l.f.'s retail expansion
“Revlon launched a brand called Vital Radiance. Now you probably don't remember, ever heard of it. And L'Oreal launched a brand called Hip to compete with Mac. And the major premise of both those brands was we are going to sell more expensive cosmetics in the d…”
Joey ShamahJun 29, 2026▶ 52:23e.l.f. Cosmetics: Joey Shamah. The Dollar Store Formula That Built a Cosmetics Giant
“Basically what we learned really early on is when you break down the cosmetics to formulations and componentry, formulations, yes, you can hit that price point. The real artistry, if you may, is in the componentry, where we couldn't afford metal, we had to go …”
Joey ShamahJun 29, 2026▶ 8:31e.l.f. Cosmetics: Joey Shamah. The Dollar Store Formula That Built a Cosmetics Giant
Disclosure
Shamah: e.l.f. Cosmetics targeted 35-cent COGS and 59-cent wholesale price
“So it's about, it was about half of that, because our target goods cost was about 35 cents. I think back to the simplicity angle, everything we sold it for 59 cents, so they could retail it for a dollar.”
Joey ShamahJun 29, 2026▶ 11:02e.l.f. Cosmetics: Joey Shamah. The Dollar Store Formula That Built a Cosmetics Giant
Disclosure
e.l.f. co-founder Scott Borba developed products while employed by competitors
“Scott was, in, in full disclosure, still working for other cosmetic companies, but working for us on the nights and weekends. He was doing the product development. So, yes, we did use my father's apparel office.”
Joey ShamahJun 29, 2026▶ 12:16e.l.f. Cosmetics: Joey Shamah. The Dollar Store Formula That Built a Cosmetics Giant
AssertionSupported
Retail makeup shelf space was locked up by five conglomerates, says Shamah
“That was the problem in the early days, that you had a few incumbents that owned a bunch of brands and controlled all the space at retail. So you had L'Oreal, which was L'Oreal and Maybelline. You had P and G, which owned cover girl at the time. So there was n…”
Joey ShamahJun 29, 2026▶ 14:02e.l.f. Cosmetics: Joey Shamah. The Dollar Store Formula That Built a Cosmetics Giant
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