The Exchanges

Every argument clarity score on this site is built from rows on this page. Each question and answer was assessed with names hidden, the host's own answers included, on four things from 1 to 5: directness (does it answer the question asked), coherence (do the ideas follow), precision (concrete details and clear references), compression (says a lot per word). The weighted mix (30/30/25/15) is the exchange score. A person's published score averages their exchange scores on raw tape only, at least 8 of them, shrunk toward the cohort mean. Full method →

Peter Metcalf no published score: no usable exchanges on raw tape, and a fair score needs 8+ record → ← everyone

Every exchange below was scored with names hidden, four dimensions each from 1 to 5. An exchange's score is 0.30·directness + 0.30·coherence + 0.25·precision + 0.15·compression. The published score averages the raw tape exchange scores and shrinks small samples toward the cohort mean, so five great answers can't beat twenty good ones. Produced feed rows count only toward coarse estimates, never toward a full score.

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Answered produced feed D 5 · C 5 · P 5 · Cm 4 4.85

Q in 1980, uh, where you, you, I guess this was a, this, again, I'm not a climber, and I don't know these mountains, but this is a particularly challenging climb, which is the south face of, of a mountain called Mount Hunter, which, you know, from what I understand, like, it had been completed only once at that point, and it was like, it took a 145 days or something?

A Yeah, yeah. This Mount Hunter climb, I had done now two major new routes in Alaska. But, as it turned out, it was the most significant failure of my climbing career. Nobody got hurt. It just was clear we're not gonna, it wasn't gonna work. The weather was just horrendous. Just absolutely horrific. And we did not bring tents, because I didn't believe in a route that steep that one could actually find places always to place tents. And where the slopes got low enough angle, I thought we could find snow, and we could dig snow caves. We had climbed Through a long day of storms, up these very steep, fluted ice ridges that were very hollow, had a lot of air in them, very dangerous to climb, but you could climb them, and that night, we finally were able to dig a cave in for the first time, get in there, and realize that we were fully committed. At this point in time, there's no way that we could safely descend what we had just climbed that day, let alone the previous days. And that if we were going to live, let alone to succeed on the root, the only way was up. And that was quite a, both sobering revelation at that moment, but it was also an absolutely inspiring revelation, because as a climber, when you're doing big new routes, what you're constantly thinking about with part of your brain is analyzing, how am I going to get down? Do I have the gear to get down? How long will it take? …

AI assessment note: “This Mount Hunter climb... was the most significant failure of my climbing career.”

Answered produced feed D 5 · C 5 · P 5 · Cm 4 4.85

Q the company. And I guess he's like, go off for three months and, you know, go fishing. And then he, you know, he didn't want anybody to contact him. Um, anyway, I mean, during the years you were at Shannard Equipment, I guess Yvonne's focus began to shift over to, to Patagonia, and, and some tension began to emerge between the two of you, right? What, what was going on?

A Yeah, this is absolutely true. So first, let me begin by saying, I owe Yvonne and Chris McDivitt So much thanks and appreciation. Everything I learned about business, or much of what I learned about business and, and how to operate one, the culture, the familial culture, so many things was through all of them, and they remain dear friends of mine. And then, to your point regarding the tension, yes, that did happen, and I think that what was a little bit of a, an irony here was that Yvonne, who built Chenard Equipment on innovative Product in Patagonia then too, and to this day, um, when it came to climbing, at this point in time, he had been, shifted his focus to the clothing, and also a bit away from climbing. He was surfing, he was kayaking, and for him, I think the golden years were the 19 fifties and sixties, and maybe the very early seventies, and I think that they were in the rearview mirror, and that the direction that climbing was moving, the improving gear, the methods, the styles. It just wasn't his cup of tea. He didn't embrace it. He wasn't excited by it. And that really came clear in 1987 when we produced the 1987 Chouinard Equipment Catalog, which was like a yearbook. I saw the catalog is a yearbook on climbing, a celebration of why do you climb, capturing the culture, the climbing styles, the image. And we gave him a copy, and he called myself and my marketing di…

AI assessment note: “to your point regarding the tension, yes, that did happen, and I think”

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