May 3, 2023 · 25m · a16z

Digital Branding: Lessons from Vogue, Monetizing Social, Creator Tips | Field Notes with Connie Chan

Susan Plageman · 16m spoken Connie Chan · 6m spoken
0:00 / 0:00
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gold bands on the timeline = statements, start to end. Hover to read, click to jump. CC turns on captions

In this episode of Andreessen Horowitz's Field Notes, host Connie Chan interviews publishing veteran and President of WME Fashion Susan Plagemann about the evolution of fashion media, digital monetization strategies, and actionable brand-building advice for modern creators and tech founders.

How this conversation actually went

Every chapter scored 0–10 on four independent dynamics. Hover any point for the reasoning behind the score. How this is scored →

The host as informed peer 3.4 Guest teaching 3.4 Guest disagreement 0.3 The host pushing back 0.5
05100:0010:0020:001:01–3:19 · The host as informed peer 2/10 Cosmopolitan's Cultural Influence and Print Business Model Connie frames the historical context of Cosmopolitan in 1998, asking Susan to elaborate on print media's influence. Susan explains the terrifying scope of taking the role and how print magazines served as market makers prior to the internet.3:19–6:19 · The host as informed peer 2/10 Expanding Cosmopolitan into a Mega Brand Susan details brand expansion strategies at Cosmo and early video experiments at Marie Claire. Connie interjects with light observations on video podcasts and asks clarifying operational questions about re-reporting print stories for video.6:19–11:13 · The host as informed peer 3/10 Adapting Print Publications to Digital Demands and UX Susan recounts building Vogue.com from scratch and the early days of figuring out digital publishing UX like vertical scrolling. Connie asks informed questions about content volume demands and notes Vogue's kingmaker status in fashion.11:13–13:35 · The host as informed peer 4/10 Editorial Unity and Digital Video Innovation at Vogue Connie poses a structured operational question about whether print and digital were managed under unified editorial leadership or as separate business units. Susan explains Vogue's singular editorial vision and early digital video innovations.13:35–16:52 · The host as informed peer 4/10 Social Media Strategy and Monetizing Platform Content Connie asks about app versus web feature parity and social media monetization. Susan passionately argues that tech platforms ought to compensate legacy media brands for driving platform engagement and value.16:52–19:03 · The host as informed peer 2/10 Leading WME Fashion and Strategic Business Pillars Connie smoothly transitions the conversation to Susan's role as President of WME Fashion. Susan outlines the four underlying business entities and her primary strategic goals for talent and brand partnerships.19:03–21:19 · The host as informed peer 5/10 Creator Guidance: Asking Strategic Questions to Brand Partners When Susan offers high-level advice about listening, Connie pushes back for specifics by demanding concrete questions creators should ask brands. Connie then synthesizes Susan's advice, contrasting consultative problem-solving with standard creator pitches.21:19–25:32 · The host as informed peer 5/10 Brand Identity, Self-Disruption, and Startup Strategy Susan discusses brand identity and self-disruption. Connie demonstrates venture expertise by connecting these brand principles directly to tech startup strategy and clear value propositions.1:01–3:19 · Guest teaching 3/10 Cosmopolitan's Cultural Influence and Print Business Model Connie frames the historical context of Cosmopolitan in 1998, asking Susan to elaborate on print media's influence. Susan explains the terrifying scope of taking the role and how print magazines served as market makers prior to the internet.3:19–6:19 · Guest teaching 3/10 Expanding Cosmopolitan into a Mega Brand Susan details brand expansion strategies at Cosmo and early video experiments at Marie Claire. Connie interjects with light observations on video podcasts and asks clarifying operational questions about re-reporting print stories for video.6:19–11:13 · Guest teaching 4/10 Adapting Print Publications to Digital Demands and UX Susan recounts building Vogue.com from scratch and the early days of figuring out digital publishing UX like vertical scrolling. Connie asks informed questions about content volume demands and notes Vogue's kingmaker status in fashion.11:13–13:35 · Guest teaching 3/10 Editorial Unity and Digital Video Innovation at Vogue Connie poses a structured operational question about whether print and digital were managed under unified editorial leadership or as separate business units. Susan explains Vogue's singular editorial vision and early digital video innovations.13:35–16:52 · Guest teaching 4/10 Social Media Strategy and Monetizing Platform Content Connie asks about app versus web feature parity and social media monetization. Susan passionately argues that tech platforms ought to compensate legacy media brands for driving platform engagement and value.16:52–19:03 · Guest teaching 3/10 Leading WME Fashion and Strategic Business Pillars Connie smoothly transitions the conversation to Susan's role as President of WME Fashion. Susan outlines the four underlying business entities and her primary strategic goals for talent and brand partnerships.19:03–21:19 · Guest teaching 4/10 Creator Guidance: Asking Strategic Questions to Brand Partners When Susan offers high-level advice about listening, Connie pushes back for specifics by demanding concrete questions creators should ask brands. Connie then synthesizes Susan's advice, contrasting consultative problem-solving with standard creator pitches.21:19–25:32 · Guest teaching 3/10 Brand Identity, Self-Disruption, and Startup Strategy Susan discusses brand identity and self-disruption. Connie demonstrates venture expertise by connecting these brand principles directly to tech startup strategy and clear value propositions.1:01–3:19 · Guest disagreement 0/10 Cosmopolitan's Cultural Influence and Print Business Model Connie frames the historical context of Cosmopolitan in 1998, asking Susan to elaborate on print media's influence. Susan explains the terrifying scope of taking the role and how print magazines served as market makers prior to the internet.3:19–6:19 · Guest disagreement 0/10 Expanding Cosmopolitan into a Mega Brand Susan details brand expansion strategies at Cosmo and early video experiments at Marie Claire. Connie interjects with light observations on video podcasts and asks clarifying operational questions about re-reporting print stories for video.6:19–11:13 · Guest disagreement 0/10 Adapting Print Publications to Digital Demands and UX Susan recounts building Vogue.com from scratch and the early days of figuring out digital publishing UX like vertical scrolling. Connie asks informed questions about content volume demands and notes Vogue's kingmaker status in fashion.11:13–13:35 · Guest disagreement 0/10 Editorial Unity and Digital Video Innovation at Vogue Connie poses a structured operational question about whether print and digital were managed under unified editorial leadership or as separate business units. Susan explains Vogue's singular editorial vision and early digital video innovations.13:35–16:52 · Guest disagreement 1/10 Social Media Strategy and Monetizing Platform Content Connie asks about app versus web feature parity and social media monetization. Susan passionately argues that tech platforms ought to compensate legacy media brands for driving platform engagement and value.16:52–19:03 · Guest disagreement 0/10 Leading WME Fashion and Strategic Business Pillars Connie smoothly transitions the conversation to Susan's role as President of WME Fashion. Susan outlines the four underlying business entities and her primary strategic goals for talent and brand partnerships.19:03–21:19 · Guest disagreement 1/10 Creator Guidance: Asking Strategic Questions to Brand Partners When Susan offers high-level advice about listening, Connie pushes back for specifics by demanding concrete questions creators should ask brands. Connie then synthesizes Susan's advice, contrasting consultative problem-solving with standard creator pitches.21:19–25:32 · Guest disagreement 0/10 Brand Identity, Self-Disruption, and Startup Strategy Susan discusses brand identity and self-disruption. Connie demonstrates venture expertise by connecting these brand principles directly to tech startup strategy and clear value propositions.1:01–3:19 · The host pushing back 0/10 Cosmopolitan's Cultural Influence and Print Business Model Connie frames the historical context of Cosmopolitan in 1998, asking Susan to elaborate on print media's influence. Susan explains the terrifying scope of taking the role and how print magazines served as market makers prior to the internet.3:19–6:19 · The host pushing back 0/10 Expanding Cosmopolitan into a Mega Brand Susan details brand expansion strategies at Cosmo and early video experiments at Marie Claire. Connie interjects with light observations on video podcasts and asks clarifying operational questions about re-reporting print stories for video.6:19–11:13 · The host pushing back 0/10 Adapting Print Publications to Digital Demands and UX Susan recounts building Vogue.com from scratch and the early days of figuring out digital publishing UX like vertical scrolling. Connie asks informed questions about content volume demands and notes Vogue's kingmaker status in fashion.11:13–13:35 · The host pushing back 0/10 Editorial Unity and Digital Video Innovation at Vogue Connie poses a structured operational question about whether print and digital were managed under unified editorial leadership or as separate business units. Susan explains Vogue's singular editorial vision and early digital video innovations.13:35–16:52 · The host pushing back 0/10 Social Media Strategy and Monetizing Platform Content Connie asks about app versus web feature parity and social media monetization. Susan passionately argues that tech platforms ought to compensate legacy media brands for driving platform engagement and value.16:52–19:03 · The host pushing back 0/10 Leading WME Fashion and Strategic Business Pillars Connie smoothly transitions the conversation to Susan's role as President of WME Fashion. Susan outlines the four underlying business entities and her primary strategic goals for talent and brand partnerships.19:03–21:19 · The host pushing back 4/10 Creator Guidance: Asking Strategic Questions to Brand Partners When Susan offers high-level advice about listening, Connie pushes back for specifics by demanding concrete questions creators should ask brands. Connie then synthesizes Susan's advice, contrasting consultative problem-solving with standard creator pitches.21:19–25:32 · The host pushing back 0/10 Brand Identity, Self-Disruption, and Startup Strategy Susan discusses brand identity and self-disruption. Connie demonstrates venture expertise by connecting these brand principles directly to tech startup strategy and clear value propositions.

speaking balance: gold is the host, purple is the guest (3 minute bins)

0:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%0:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%3:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%3:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%6:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%6:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%9:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%9:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%12:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%12:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%15:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%15:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%18:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%18:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%21:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%21:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%24:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%24:00 · the host 0% · guest 100%
Sharpest disagreement ▶ 15:51 Rejecting free platform distribution models

Susan forcefully rejects the historical platform paradigm of publishers giving content away for free, asserting that brands like Vogue made Instagram cool and deserve financial compensation.

Hardest push from the host ▶ 19:44 Demanding concrete questions over generalities

When Susan provides a generic answer about asking questions and listening, Connie immediately interrupts to demand specific actionable questions creators should ask.

Biggest teaching moment ▶ 7:05 Educating on early web publishing UX hurdles

Susan educates Connie on how early web editors had to discover basic digital UX norms that are taken for granted today, such as user preference for vertical scrolling over horizontal navigation.

The host holds their own ▶ 20:41 Framing consultative brand sales strategy

Connie demonstrates sharp business acumen by recapping and contrasting traditional creator self-promotion pitches against Susan's consultative problem-solving framework.

the scores for every segment, with the reasoning behind each
ChapterTopicThe host as informed peerGuest teachingGuest disagreementThe host pushing backWhy
Cosmopolitan's Cultural Influence and Print Business Model 2300 Connie frames the historical context of Cosmopolitan in 1998, asking Susan to elaborate on print media's influence. Susan explains the terrifying scope of taking the role and how print magazines served as market makers prior to the internet.
Expanding Cosmopolitan into a Mega Brand 2300 Susan details brand expansion strategies at Cosmo and early video experiments at Marie Claire. Connie interjects with light observations on video podcasts and asks clarifying operational questions about re-reporting print stories for video.
Adapting Print Publications to Digital Demands and UX 3400 Susan recounts building Vogue.com from scratch and the early days of figuring out digital publishing UX like vertical scrolling. Connie asks informed questions about content volume demands and notes Vogue's kingmaker status in fashion.
Editorial Unity and Digital Video Innovation at Vogue 4300 Connie poses a structured operational question about whether print and digital were managed under unified editorial leadership or as separate business units. Susan explains Vogue's singular editorial vision and early digital video innovations.
Social Media Strategy and Monetizing Platform Content 4410 Connie asks about app versus web feature parity and social media monetization. Susan passionately argues that tech platforms ought to compensate legacy media brands for driving platform engagement and value.
Leading WME Fashion and Strategic Business Pillars 2300 Connie smoothly transitions the conversation to Susan's role as President of WME Fashion. Susan outlines the four underlying business entities and her primary strategic goals for talent and brand partnerships.
Creator Guidance: Asking Strategic Questions to Brand Partners 5414 When Susan offers high-level advice about listening, Connie pushes back for specifics by demanding concrete questions creators should ask brands. Connie then synthesizes Susan's advice, contrasting consultative problem-solving with standard creator pitches.
Brand Identity, Self-Disruption, and Startup Strategy 5300 Susan discusses brand identity and self-disruption. Connie demonstrates venture expertise by connecting these brand principles directly to tech startup strategy and clear value propositions.

Statements from this episode (9)

Assertion Partly supported
Plagemann: Marie Claire Launched the First Video Podcast Series
“We launched ever the first ever video podcast series.”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 4:34
Insight
Plagemann: Media brands must anticipate consumer behavior and guide consumption habits
“But you need to anticipate consumers' behavior, and you need to get there before they're there, and then when you're there, you need to guide them and teach them how to consume your content in a new way.”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 6:52
Assertion Partly supported
Vogue lacked a standalone website when Susan Plagemann joined in 2010
“It did not. Not when I arrived. It did. It had a website that it shared with another brand, but it was not a free, it was, there was no Vogue.com.”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 8:44
Assertion Supported
Plagemann: Vogue ran print and digital under a single editor-in-chief
“Vogue was run both both on the print side and digitally by the same person, by our editor in chief”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 12:12
Insight
Plageman: Great Digital Reporting Requires Daily Responsiveness to Culture and News
“The real success and the genesis, I think, of really great digital reporting and coverage comes by your team's ability to respond to what's happening in the culture and the news on a daily basis, and that's what Vogue, I think, was genius at.”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 12:23
Disclosure
Plagemann repeatedly pitched charging consumers to follow Vogue on social media
“The biggest thing that I always wanted to do was to charge consumers to follow us on social and everyone's like, I've been told no for, I don't know, as long as we've had social out there.”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 15:52
Opinion
Plagemann: Legacy brands like Vogue made Instagram and TikTok cool
“Brands like Vogue and other brands, like really, really great brands actually helped make Instagram as cool and as great as it is. And the same thing with Tik Tok.”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 16:26
Insight
Plagemann: Creators pitching brands must ask how their counterpart defines success
“The first one I would ask would be in your role. How do you define success? Because that very quickly will tell you that person you're sitting across from, it will very quickly tell you like, what's their priority. And when you know someone's priority, then yo…”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 19:48
Insight
Plagemann: Ask Brand Partners Their Top Three Annual Priorities
“The other question that I think is really important to ask is what are the three most important things that you have to do this year for your company? And that too will give you very quickly where their focus is.”
Susan Plageman May 3, 2023 ▶ 20:23
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